CHAPTER IV
The traditional Hospitality of the Highlands. – One more fond Belief gone. – Highland Bills. – Donald's Two Trinities. – Never trust Donald on Saturdays or Mondays. – The Game he prefers. – A well-informed Man. – Ask no Questions and you will be told no Tales. – How Donald showed prodigious Things to a Cockney in the Highlands. – There is no Man so dumb as he who will not be heard.
Ever since the French first heard Boïeldieu's opera, La Dame Blanche, and were charmed with the chorus, "Chez les montagnards écossais l'hospitalité se donne," the Highlander has enjoyed a tremendous reputation for hospitality on the other side of the Channel.
I am ready to acknowledge that the Scotch, as a nation, are most hospitable; but do not talk to me of the hospitality of the Highlander.
The hospitality of the mountains, like that of the valleys, is extinct in almost every place where modern civilisation has penetrated; the real old-fashioned article is scarcely to be found except among the savages.
Donald has made the acquaintance of railways and mail coaches, he has transformed his Highlands into a kind of little Switzerland; in fact, the man is no longer recognisable.
The Highlander of the year of grace 1887 is a wideawake dog, who lies in wait for the innocent tourist, and knows how to tot you up a bill worthy of a Parisian boarding-house keeper at Exhibition time. Woe to you if you fall into his clutches; before you come out of them you will be plucked, veritably flayed.
The Highlander worships two trinities: the holy one on Sundays, and a metallic one all the week. £. s. d. is the base of his language. Though Gaelic should be the veriest Hebrew to you, you have but to learn the meaning and pronunciation of the three magic words, and you will have no difficulty in getting along in the Highlands.
Every Sabbath he goes in for a thorough spiritual cleaning; therefore trust him not on Saturday or Monday – on Saturday, because he says to himself, "Oh! one transgression more or less whilst I am at it, what does it matter? it is Sunday to-morrow;" on Monday, because he is all fresh washed, and ready to begin the week worthily.
He has a way of giving you your change which seems to say, "Is it the full change you expect?" If you keep your hand held out, and appear to examine what he gives you, his look says: "You are one of the wideawake sort; we understand each other."
Needless to say that the Highlander is glad to see the tourist, as the hunter is glad to see game.
Frenchmen, Germans, Russians, Englishmen, Americans, all are sure of a welcome – he loves them all alike.
Still, perhaps of all the foreign tourists who visit his hunting-grounds, it is the Americans who have found the royal road to his heart.
"The Americans are a great people," said a Highland innkeeper to me one day. "When you present an Englishman with his bill, he looks it over to see that it is all right. He will often dispute and haggle. The American is a gentleman; he would think it beneath him to descend to such trifles. When you bring him his account, he will wave your hand away and tell you he does not want your bill; he wants to know how much he owes you, and that's the end of it."
His idea of a perfect gentleman is an innocent who pays his bills without looking at them.
When he recognises a tourist as a compatriot, you may imagine what a wry face he makes.
Just as the hotel-keeper of Interlaken or Chamounix relegates all his Swiss customers to the fifth floor rooms, so Donald gives the cold shoulder to all the Scotch who come his way. With them he is obliged to submit his bills to the elementary rules of arithmetic, and be careful that two and two make only four.
It is said that of all the inhabitants of the earth, the Paris badaud is the most easy to amuse. I think, for my part, that his London equivalent runs him very close. However this may be, the native of London is an easy prey to the wily Scot.
They are fond of telling, in Scotland, how friend Donald one day showed a Cockney really prodigious things in the Isle of Arran.
A Londoner, wishing to astonish his friends with the account of his adventures in Scotland, resolved to make the ascent of the Goatfell without the aid of a guide. Arrived at the foot of the mountain, he informed the guides, who came to offer him their services, of his intention. You may imagine if Donald, who had sniffed a good day's work, meant to give up his bread and butter without a struggle.
"Your project is a mad one," our tourist is told. "You will miss many splendid points of view, and you will run a thousand risks."
The ascension of the Goatfell is about as difficult as that of the Monument; but our hero, who knew nothing about it, began to turn pale.
However, he appeared determined to keep to his resolution; and Donald, who considers he is being robbed every time anyone climbs his hills without a guide, begins to grumble.
Besides, when one is a Highlander, one does not give up a point so easily as all that. Our Caledonian resorts to diplomacy. A brilliant idea occurs to him.
"Since you will not have a guide," says he, pretending to withdraw, "good luck to you on your journey! Mind you don't miss the mysterious stone."
"What mysterious stone?" demands the Cockney.
"Oh, on the top of the Goatfell," replies Donald, "there is a stone that might well be called enchanted. When you stand upon that stone, no sound, no matter how close or how loud, can reach your ears."
"Really?" says the tourist, gaping.
"A thunderstorm might burst just above your head, and you would never hear it," added Donald, who saw that his bait was beginning to take.
"Prodigious!" cried the Londoner. "How shall I know the stone? Do tell me."
"Not easily," insinuated Donald slyly; "it is scarcely known except to guides. However, I will try to describe its position to you."
Here the Scot entered into explanations which threw the Cockney's brain into a complete muddle.
"I had better take you, after all, I think," said the bewildered tourist. "Come along."
I need not tell you that they were soon at the wonderful stone.
The Londoner took up his position on it, and begged the guide to stand a few steps off and to shout at the top of his voice.
Out Scot fell to making all sorts of contortions, placing his hands to his mouth as if to carry the sound; but not a murmur reached the ears of the tourist.
"Take a rest," he said to Donald; "you will make yourself hoarse… It is a fact that I have not heard a sound. It is prodigious! Now you go and stand on the stone, and I will shout."
They changed places.
The Cockney began to rave with all his might.
Donald did not move a muscle.
The dear Londoner made the hills ring with the sound of his voice, but his guide gazed at him as calmly as Nature that surrounded them.
"Don't you hear anything?" cried the poor tourist.
Donald was not so silly as to fall into the trap. He feigned not to hear, and kept up his impassive expression.
The Cockney continued to howl.
"Shout louder," cried Donald; "I can hear nothing."
"It's wonderful; it is enough to take one's breath away. I never saw anything so remarkable in my life!"
And putting his hand in his pocket, he drew out a golden coin, and slipped it into Donald's hand.
This done, they left the marvel behind, and climbed to the summit of the Goatfell, the clever guide carefully picking out all the roughest paths, and doing his best to give his patient plenty of dangers for his money.
That night, after having made a note of all his day's adventures, the proud tourist added, as a future caution to his friends:
"Be sure and take a guide for the Goatfell!"
CHAPTER V
Resemblance of Donald to the Norman. – Donald marketing. – Bearding a Barber. – Norman Replies. – Cant. – Why the Whisky was not marked on the Hotel Bill. – New Use for the Old and New Testaments. – You should love your Enemies and not swallow them. – A modest Wish.
Friend Donald resembles the Norman very closely.
Like him, he is cunning and circumspect, with the composed exterior of Puss taking a doze.
We say in France, "Answering like a Norman." That means, "to give an evasive, ambiguous answer – neither yes nor no."
They might say in England, "Answering like a Scot," to express the same idea.
Look at Donald, with the corners of his mouth drawn back, and his eyes twinkling as he nods at you and answers Ay, or shakes his head as he says Na, na; and you will be convinced that he is compromised neither by the one nor the other.
At market the resemblance is perfect.
He strolls into the stall as if he did not want anything more than a look round. He examines the goods with a most indifferent eye, turns them over and over, and finds fault with them. He seems to say to the stall-keeper:
"You certainly could not have the impudence to ask a good price for such stuff as this."
If he buys, he pays with a protest.
When he pockets cash, on the contrary, admire the rapidity of the proceeding.
I one day heard a Norman, who had just been profiting by being in town on market-day to get shaved, say to the barber, with the most innocent air in the world:
"My word, I'm very sorry not to have a penny to give you, but my wife and I have spent all our money; I have only a halfpenny left… I will owe you till next time."
Compare this Norman with the hero of the following little anecdote which the Scotch tell.
A Scot, who sold brooms, went into a Glasgow barber's shop to get shaved.
The barber bought a broom of Donald, and, after having shaved him, asked what he owed him for the broom.
"Two pence," said Donald.
"No, no," said the barber; "it's too dear. I will give you a penny, and if you are not satisfied, you can take your broom again."
Donald pocketed the penny, and asked what he had to pay for being shaved.
"A penny," replied the barber.
"Na, na," said Donald; "I will give ye a bawbee, an' if ye are no satisfied, ye can pit my beard back again."
This is Norman to the life.
The Scot pays when he has given his signature, or when there is no help for it.
It has been said that the farthing was introduced to allow the Scotch to be generous. This is calumny; for the Scot is charitable: but if collections in Scotch churches were made in bags, there might be rather a run on the small copper coin.
If you would see still another point of resemblance between the Scot and the Norman, look at them as they indulge in their little pet transgression.
When Donald orders his glass of whisky, he is always careful to say:
"Waiter, a small whisky."
The Irishman asks for a "strong whisky," straight out, like a man.
Donald is modest, he asks for his small. That is the allowance of sober folks, and the dear fellow is one of them. But just add up at the end of the evening the number of wee draps that he has on his conscience, and you will find they make a very respectable total.
Now look at the Norman taking his cups of café tricolore after dinner.
Do not imagine that he is going to take up the three bottles of brandy, rum, and kirschwasser, and pour himself out some of their contents. No, no; he would be too much afraid of exceeding the dose. He measures it into his spoon, which he holds horizontally; and, to see the precautions he takes, you would think he was a chemist preparing a doctor's prescription.
"A teaspoonful of each," he says to you; "that is my quantity."
But how they brim over, those spoonfuls! When the overflow has fallen into the cup, he shows you the full spoon, with the remark:
"One of each kind, no more."
Scotch shrewdness expresses itself in a phraseology all its own, and of which Donald alone possesses the secret. He handles the English language with the talent of the most wily diplomatist. He has a happy knack of combining irony and humour, as the following story shows:
An English author had sent his latest production to several men of letters, requesting them to kindly give him their opinion of his book. A Scotchman replied:
"Many thanks for the book which you did me the honour to send me. I will lose no time in reading it."
Quite a Norman response, only more delicate.
Scotch shrewdness has occasionally a certain smack of mild hypocrisy, which, however, does no harm to anyone.
Here are two examples of it that rather diverted me:
I was in the smoking-room of the Grand Hotel at Glasgow one evening.
Near me, sitting at a little table, were two gentlemen – unmistakably Scotch, as their accent proclaimed.
One of them calls the waiter, and orders a glass of whisky.
"What is the number of your room, sir?" asks the waiter, having put the whisky and water-jug on the table.
"No matter, waiter; don't put it on the bill. Here is the money."
"Very clever, that Caledonian," said I to myself, as I noted the wink to the waiter and the glance thrown to the other occupant of the table.
True it is, Scripta manent!
If his wife accidentally puts her hand on his hotel bill in the pocket of his coat, there is no harm done – no sign of any but the most innocent articles.
Another time I was in a Scotchman's library.
While waiting for my host, who was to rejoin me there, I had a look at his books, most of which treated of theology.
Two volumes, admirably bound, attracted my gaze. They were marked on the back – one, Old Testament, the other, New Testament. I tried to take down the first volume; but, to my surprise, the second moved with it. Were the two volumes fixed together? or were they stuck by accident? Not suspecting any mystery, I pulled hard. The Old Testament and the New Testament were in one, and came together. The handsome binding was nothing but the cover of a box of cigars. No more Testament than there is on the palm of my hand: cigars – first-rate cigars – nothing but cigars, placed there under the protection of the holy patriarchs.
I had time to put all in place again before my host came; but I was not at my ease. I was quite innocent, of course; but – I don't know why – when one has discovered a secret, one feels guilty of having taken something that belongs to another.
At last my host entered, closed the door, and, rubbing his hands, said:
"Now I am at your service. Excuse me for leaving you alone a few moments. I have settled my business, and we will have a cigar together, if you like."
So saying, he opened the door of a small cupboard made in the wall, and cleverly hidden by a picture of "John Knox imploring Mary Stuart to abjure the Catholic faith." It was, as you see, rather a mysterious library. From this cupboard he took some glasses – and something to fill them agreeably withal. Then, without betraying the slightest embarrassment, without a smile or a glance, he brought the twin volumes which had so astonished me, and laid them on the table. I had the pleasure of making closer acquaintance with the cigars, that seemed to bring a recommendation from Moses and the prophets.
An anecdote on the ready wit of Donald:
He meets his pastor, who remonstrates with him upon the subject of his intemperate habits.
"You are too fond of whisky, Donald; you ought to know very well that whisky is your enemy."
"But, minister, have you not often told us that we ought to love our enemies?" says Donald, slyly.
"Yes, Donald; but I never told you that you should swallow them," replies the pastor, who was as witty as his parishioner.
What anecdotes I heard in Scotland on the subject of whisky, to be sure!
Here is a good one for the last. I owe it to a learned professor of the Aberdeen University.
Donald feels the approach of death.
The minister of his village is at his bedside, preparing him by pious exhortations for the great journey.
"Have you anything on your mind, Donald? Is there any question you would like to ask me?" And the minister bent down to listen to the dying man's reply.
"Na, meenister, I'm na afeard… I wad like to ken whether there'll be whisky in heaven?"
Upon his spiritual counsellor remonstrating with him upon such a thought at such a moment, he hastened to add, with a knowing look:
"Oh! it's no that I mind, meenister; I only thoucht I'd like to see it on the table!"
CHAPTER VI
Democratic Spirit in Scotland. – One Scot as good as another. – Amiable Beggars. – Familiarity of Servants. – Shout all together! – A Scotchman who does not admire his Wife. – Donald's Pride. – The Queen and her Scotch People. – Little Presents keep alive Friendship.
The Scotch are an essentially democratic people. I take the word in its social, not its political, sense; although it might be asserted without hesitation, that if ever there was a nation formed for living under a republic, it is the Scotch – serious, calm, wise, law-abiding, and ever ready to respect the opinions of others. Yet the Scotch are perhaps the most devoted subjects of the English crown.
The English and Scotch are republicans, with democratic institutions, living under a monarchy.
When I say that the Scotch are a democratic people, I mean that in Scotland, still more than in England, one man is as good as another.
The Scot does not admit the existence of demigods. In his eyes, the robes of the priest or judge cover a man, not an oracle.
Always ready for a bit of argument, he criticises an order, a sermon, a verdict even.
Religious as he is, yet he will weigh every utterance of his pastor before accepting it. He respects the law; but if his bailie inflicts on him a fine that he thinks unjust, he does not scruple to tell him a piece of his mind; and if ever you wish to be told your daily duty at home, you have but to engage a Scotch servant.
Donald knows how to accept social inferiority; he may perhaps envy his betters, but he does not hate them. He never abdicates his manhood's dignity: an obsequious Scotchman is unknown.
In Scotland, even a beggar has none of those abject manners that denote his class elsewhere. His look seems to say: —
"Come, my fine fellow, listen to me a minute: you have money and I have none; you might give me a penny."
I remember one in Edinburgh, who stopped me politely, yet without touching his cap, and said:
"You look as if you had had a good dinner, sir; won't you give me something to buy a meal with?"
I took him to a cook-shop and bought him a pork pie.
"If you don't mind," said he, "I'll have veal."
Why certainly! everyone to his taste, to be sure.
I acquiesced with alacrity. He was near shaking hands with me.
Donald is plain spoken with everyone. In Scotland, as in France, there are still to be found old servants whose familiarity would horrify an Englishman, but whom the bonhomie of Scotch masters tolerates without a murmur, in consideration of the fidelity and devotion of these honest servants.
Like every man who is conscious of his strength, the Scot is good-humoured; he rarely loses his temper.
The familiarity of the servant and good-humour of the master, in Scotland, are delightfully illustrated in the two following anecdotes, which were told me in Scotland.
Donald is serving at table. Several guests claim his attention at once: one wants bread, another wine, another vegetables. Donald does not know which way to turn. Presently, losing patience, he apostrophises the company thus:
"That's it; cry a'together – that's the way to be served!"
A laird, in the county of Aberdeen, had a well-stocked fowl yard, but could never get any new-laid eggs for breakfast.
He wanted to penetrate the mystery. So he lay in ambush, and discovered that his gardener's wife went to the hen-roost every morning, filled her basket with the eggs, and made straight for the market to sell them.
The first time he met his gardener, he said to him:
"James, I like you very weel, for I think you serve me faithfully; but, between oursels, I canna say that I hae muckle admiration for your wife."
"I'm no surprised at that, laird," replied James, "for I dinna muckle admire her mysel!"
What could the poor laird say? This fresh union of sympathies united them only more closely.
"Proud as a Highlander" is a common saying. His gait tells you what he is. He walks with head thrown back, and shoulders squared; his step is firm and springy. It is a man who says to himself twenty times a day:
"I am a Scotchman."
Such an exalted opinion has he of his race that when Queen Victoria gave Princess Louise to the Marquis of Lorne in marriage, the general feeling in the Highlands was, as everybody knows, "The Queen maun be a prood leddy the day!"
The English were astonished at the Queen's consenting to give her daughter to one of her subjects. They looked upon it as a mésalliance. The Scotch were not far from doing the same – a Campbell marry a simple Brunswick!
It is in the Highlands that this national pride is preserved intact. Mountainous countries always keep their characteristics longer than others.
Everyone knows that the Queen of England passes a great part of the year in her Castle of Balmoral, in the heart of the Highlands, among her worthy Scotch people, whom she appears to prefer to all her other subjects. She visits the humblest cottages, and sends delicacies to the sick and aged.
The good folk do not accept the bounty of their Queen without making her a return for it in kind. Yes – in kind. The women knit her a pair of stockings or a shawl, and the Queen delights them by accepting their presents.