The emigrants to California by way of the Great Salt Lake route have endured terrible hardships during the present year. The rigors of the season, and the want of water, have been but secondary matters. The Indians, always unfriendly, have been particularly hostile, and several battles between them and the emigrants have taken place. In one of the battles, thirty Indians were killed, while the whites had several wounded, but none killed. It is supposed that the assailants belonged to the Utahs. The Salt Lake City is the great refuge of the belated emigrants upon that route, and the Mormons are hospitable to all who visit them for shelter, or for mere curiosity.
The great body of the emigrants continue to take the old route, which we have elsewhere described, and find that it is the safest and shortest of the land routes. Judging from the statements of the number of emigrants who have passed Fort Laramie this season, we should say, that the route could scarcely be called a wilderness, when it is impossible to travel thirty miles without meeting with parties and families of whites. Part of this tide of emigration will flow to Oregon, no doubt, on account of the fertile lands to be there obtained; but the golden land will get the bulk of it.
In a recent tour through the region bordering on Moqueleme River, in California, a couple of gentlemen from Stockton, discovered a cave or grotto of great extent. They found that it contained large quantities of stalactite, and saw evidences of gold. The Indians who accompanied the gentlemen were horror stricken at their audacity, when they entered a cave which tradition said no man returned from alive. The skeleton of a human being was found at some distance from the opening.
An event has occurred which will no doubt exercise a great influence on California affairs. This is the discovery of the existence of abundance of gold in Oregon territory. The discovery created great excitement through the various cities and towns of Oregon, and the northern towns of California. That which is exhibited, shows an entirely different character to any of that dug in the mines of California. It contains large quantities of platina, and is said to be of a richer character. The mines just discovered are situated about two hundred miles from Oregon City. The consequences of this discovery may be easily apprehended. Oregon will secure a larger share of the emigration from the Atlantic States than she had before, and her progress will be rapid, for her soil and climate render the country an attractive place of residence. But will the progress of California be less rapid in consequence of this? We think not. The united attractions of the two territories will operate for the benefit of both, and only tend to increase the quantity of emigration.
CHAPTER XV
A GENERAL VIEW OF CALIFORNIA AT THE PRESENT TIME
We have followed the narrative of the events in the history of California up to the present time. We have traced her progress from her first settlement up to the time when she appears as a sovereign republican State; and we have seen the effects of her vast metallic wealth working wonders in a short space of time. We have seen her towns before and after the gold discovery, and marked the contrast; and we have seen her territory become thickly peopled, and her resources developed in a space of time which other territories less favored, would require for an infancy. We have also considered her soil, climate, productions, and population, and exhibited each subject as fully as our information warranted. But in order to give a clear conception of the general character of California and her resources and capabilities, and to enable the reader to obtain an idea of the bright future to which she is destined, we have concluded to add another chapter upon the general state of things there at the present time.
California is now a State – in organization at least, if not in being a member of the Union. The country has become thoroughly American in its government and laws. A Constitution is adopted as a State organization, which bears the impress of enlightened sentiment and just principles. The most liberal provisions have been made in that instrument for the grand end of public education. The power and capability of the people to rule themselves has been recognized in the matter of electing nearly all the officers of the government – including the judges of the various courts over which the State has control. The Legislature, in the course of a laborious session, has abolished the old civil law which ruled the country under the Mexican government, and continued after the acquisition of the territory by the United States, and have substituted the common law of England and many of the States in the Union. In taking this step, they were actuated by sound policy. Few of those who were subjected to be tried, or to have their suits decided by the rules of this civil code were aware of the nature of these rules; and from their crude and unintelligible character, it would have been a long time before they could have been fully or certainly informed. The old common law is that to whose rules they have conformed in the older States, and which is better suited to their habits and principles of action.
But with her complete State organization, California has applied for admission into the Union, and from various causes, without reason, as we conceive, has not yet been admitted to her claim. This delay, continued through a long session of Congress, has somewhat irritated the Californians, who are anxiously watching the doings of Congress. The state of feeling on the subject is clearly stated in one of the California papers; and it is worthy of attention. We extract it.
"Shall California be Admitted? – We desire once more to state calmly and firmly the grievances under which the State of California labors, in order that Congress, in her hesitation, which may terminate in an open refusal to admit us as equal sharers in the benefits, as we are of the burdens of the general government, may not act in ignorance of the true state of feeling existing here upon a point so vital to our future.
"California feels that she has been made the sport of gambling politicians long enough. This is the universal sentiment of one hundred thousand citizens of this State, expecting daily reinforcements which will swell the number to an aggregate of two hundred and fifty thousand before the second session of the present Congress. She feels that such a mass of men, born under the flag of the Union, have a right to some of the privileges which they were taught to suppose it typified. She feels that she has no right to be taxed and not protected – to be taxed, and not represented, to be taxed, and nothing but taxed. Nothing else has been done for her. We hear of no Indian agent in the country. American citizens are slaughtered weekly if not daily by savages on our border. An agent of the Postoffice Department has been sent here, but his power to put into successful operation a thorough mail system, commensurate with the wants of the people, has been effectually crippled from the want of an appropriation to meet the necessary expenses. We are without admiralty courts; yet the interests of the commerce of the Pacific are centring in the Bay of San Francisco. We are paying millions into the treasury of the United States yearly. Our custom-house is thronged daily with captains and consignees of vessels, paying government dues, which eventually come from the pockets of the citizens of the whole State; yet there is hardly a possibility that one dollar in a thousand will ever be expended for our benefit.
"This state of things is unnatural – too much so for a quiet endurance, unless stern necessity is at the bottom. Were there any reason why we should be treated thus, we could patiently suffer on. But there is none. And now a sentiment is fast gaining ground here, that it is the intention of Congress – or a portion of Congress, to throw us back upon a territorial organization. It may not be amiss to state that California, under no circumstances, will give up her State organization. She has just escaped from the crudities and unintelligibilities of the Mexican code. Under it, she would still be laboring, had the action of Congress been awaited. Neither to this state of vassalage to institutions foreign to the habits and education of her citizens, nor to a second vassalage of territorial government under Congress, will she submit now. She knows her interests too well for this. If we are driven to take matters into our own keeping, the responsibility rests not upon us, neither should the odium, if any attaches. Should Congress ever come to its senses, and do what naked justice demanded months ago, California will ever be ready and proud to form one of the States of the Union; but it is asking too much that she should offer herself a willing sacrifice on the altar of demagogues."
This is strongly and firmly said; and we hope that it will exercise some influence on those to whose attention it is directed. Nothing can be more unjust in politics than taxation without a due compensation of protection and of law. There is scarcely any prospect, however, that California will be required to go back to a territorial organization. Such a request would be absurd in the highest degree, and none but ultras recommend it.
Whether California be admitted into the Union at the present session of Congress, or not, we may consider her Constitution and many of her laws necessary for carrying out the provisions of the Constitution, as fixed and operative. We have then, in a knowledge of their laws, a view of the character of society in California, in many particulars, but there are others which require further observation. One feature strikes the observer at first glance. It is the variety of nation which marks the population of the principal cities of California. There may be seen the rapid, yet prudent Yankee, with a sharp eye to the main chance, and a ready comprehension of the consequences of a bargain or a speculation; the cool, slow, and heavy-moving Englishman, wishing to be sure of his game, and, therefore, late in grasping for it; the lively and sociable Frenchman, contrasting appearances and manners with things in Paris; the coarse-looking German, with a lively conception of the wealth of the country, and a deep consideration of the means of grasping a goodly share of it; the half-Spanish native of California, with his love of indolence, and easy of satisfaction; the Chilian, with the ferocity and the cowardice of the descendants of the Spaniards, and loving fandangoes and riding horses, as intensely as the Californians, the Chinese, with dirty, but industrious habits, and the native Indians – a mean, degraded specimen of that noble race that once were lords of the American forests.
At the present time, it is a matter of doubt, whether the Americans or the foreigners predominate in the population of California. It is certain that the former have things pretty much their own way in the various cities and in the mines. But that may be from a want of unity of action among the foreigners. The habits and modes of life belonging to the Americans are generally prevalent in the cities; but in the smaller and older towns, the native Californians conduct every thing in the old Spanish mode. The difference between the society of Los Angeles and Sacramento City, is wide, and affords a good contrast between the restless, enterprising, utilitarian spirit of the Americans, and the indolent, pleasure-loving spirit of the Californians. With the Americans, in the cities where they are in the majority, business is the uppermost consideration upon all occasions, and profit and loss, and chances of obtaining a competency, the constant subject of thought. With the Californians, the enjoyment of the present, which alone is theirs, is at all times a matter of prime importance; and gambling, drinking, dancing, guitar-playing, and riding on horseback, are the principal sources of their pleasures. Which of these modes of passing away life is the most philosophical, we leave to the speculative. But it is apparent in California, that the energy of the American character is exercising a great influence on the descendants of the Spaniards. Their spirit is infectious. In some of the towns upon the coast, one half of the buildings are occupied by persons who have emigrated from the Eastern States; and the contrast between their log and brick houses, and the adobé houses of the Californians, is singular, and seems as if the old dead looking trunk of the tree had suddenly sent out new branches full of life and freshness.
All the vices consequent upon a heterogeneous population, suddenly thrown together and stimulated to an extraordinary degree of activity, have fully exhibited themselves in California. Nearly every body in the mining regions carries deadly weapons of some sort, and with the promptings of avarice, and the excitement of passion, many shocking, secret murders, and many open, revengeful encounters are continually occurring. The practice of carrying deadly weapons can only be abolished when a stronger feeling of security, induced by a confidence in the protection of the laws, shall take the place of constant dread. The mining population is of as mixed a character as that in the commercial cities; and national jealousies will occur occasionally. The elation consequent upon successful gold digging and speculating, leads to excess in drinking and gambling, and these lead to frequent quarrels and deadly encounters. The remedy for these things is only to be found in the reaction to which a few years will lead, when the power of the law shall be supreme throughout the gold region.
The principal thing which has contributed in some degree to influence the prospect and the labors of the miners, is the government tax upon the foreigners who wish to work upon the public lands in digging and washing gold. The tax is certainly a just one, but many are of opinion that it is too high. A lighter tax would more readily receive the assent of the mass of foreigners; but whether it is not just that they should pay a tax of eight dollars for every ounce of gold they obtain from the land of others, is another question. The greater portion of the gold region belongs to the government, and was paid for by the government. The people of the United States should, therefore, have the sole right to occupy it; and it is but just, that those people of foreign nations who wish to reap a profit from it either by digging gold or cultivating the ground, should pay for the use of it. The effect of the tax is, that those who must pay it, either must give up mining or work harder to reap sufficient profit. In either case, the country is benefited.
The mining region is constantly increasing in extent. The placers first worked still yield a profit sufficient to reward the gold seeker for his labor, and the frequent discovery of new ones by parties prospecting, keeps up the heat of excitement. The region is constantly extending towards the north. The vicinity of Trinity River is the most northern part of California where gold is obtained in any considerable quantity, and the source of the San Joaquin, is the most southern. The entire region embraced between these two points is known to abound in the precious metal, and is traversed by the gold "prospecters." Of the gold obtained, a great quantity – a third, at least, remains in the country. Another is carried out of California by the foreigners, and the remainder is sent to the Atlantic States of the Union. This is but a rough estimate; but it seems warranted by the facts of the number of foreigners in the country, and the necessary current money of the residents. Certain it is, that were we to judge of the quantity of gold obtained in California, by the amount received in the United States, we would fall far too short of the truth.
The growth of the commerce of California necessarily carries with it the growth of all those cities and towns which have any commercial advantages, or which are connected with the various ports. Not only has San Francisco constantly in her harbor a tremendous fleet of merchant vessels from all parts of the world, pouring into her lap the commodities necessary to a new country and a rapid building city, and Sacramento, the commerce of the mines continually passing through it, but all the towns along the coast have felt the impulse, and have become the seat of a traffic of some sort. San Diego, Santa Barbara, San Pedro, and Monterey, are all commercial ports, which have become the resort of those traders who wish to escape the crowd of competitors to be met with at the more northern towns, and to have a pleasant place of residence besides. Los Angeles, twenty-five miles from the port of San Pedro is the centre of an extensive inland trade, and from its being a delightful place of residence, will contribute to the building up of San Pedro in a greater degree than the commerce of San Pedro can influence it.
At present, San Francisco is a city of about thirty thousand inhabitants, and in spite of the repeated visitations of the calamity of destructive fire, it has suffered no stoppage in its rapid progress. On the contrary, these fires seem to give a new impulse to the energy and enterprise of its inhabitants, and, by impressing upon them the utility of building their houses and stores of the more substantial brick, to have been of permanent benefit. Like the water of a rapid river, which, meeting with a serious obstacle in its course, is checked for the moment and then, having gathered new strength, surmounts the barrier and springs forward with renewed energy, San Francisco has pursued her course. The late fire, decidedly the most disastrous the new city has experienced, produced for awhile a general stand in business. But the go-aheadative principle was too strong for a continuance of a stagnation; and all the sufferers set about doing their utmost to retrieve their fortunes. Success must wait upon such persevering energy.
Sacramento City is fast treading upon the heels of her commercial sister city. Improvements are constantly being made to the appearance of the city and the comfort of its inhabitants. A levee is in course of construction, which, it is thought, will effectually protect the city from being flooded during the season of the rise of the river. The overland emigration of which Sacramento is the goal, contributes to swell the population rapidly; and, during the rainy season the greater portion of the population of the northern mines flock into the city for refuge till the digging season commences.
Stockton, Benicia, San José, and Sutter are each increasing the number of their residents and their trade very fast. The first is the depot of the southern mines; the second, the military and naval station, chosen by the government officers; the third is the capital of the State; the last is a thriving town, near Sacramento, but in a better situation.
One of the most interesting features of California is the number of the missions in various parts of the State. They are and will continue to be interesting, because of their age, and the self-denying and energetic labors with which they are connected. They were the centres, established by a few Catholic priests, from which the rays of enlightenment and civilized enjoyment were spread to the native Indians of California. Each mission was a little principality, with many leagues of land attached, with some thousand head of cattle, and all the neighboring Indians subject to the control of the padre, and cultivating the land for their own and the padre's benefit. In 1800, these missions were sixteen in number, and three only have been added since that time. They are named and located as follows: – San Rafael and San Francisco Solano, north of San Francisco Bay; Dolores, near San Francisco; Santa Clara and San José, near Pueblo San José; San Juan, Santa Cruz and Carmel, near Monterey; Soledad, San Antonio, and San Miguel, in the valley of Salina River; San Luis Obispo, La Purisima, Santa Ynez, Santa Barbara, and San Buenaventura, near Santa Barbara; San Gabriel and San Fernando, near Los Angeles; and San Luis Rey, San Juan Capistrano and San Diego, on the coast, south of Los Angeles.
The wealth and power of these missions have fled, and they are all, more or less, in a state of decay. The Indians who were prospering under the care of the priests have either taken refuge in the mountains or linger about the old mission buildings, in a degraded and ignorant state. The immense quantity of land which was once attached to them has been taken from them from time to time, and now they but seem the ruins of former greatness. The beauty of the country surrounding those of the missions which are still existing, and the picturesque appearance of those which are in ruins make them well worthy a visit to the lover of the antiquated.
The usual attendant of the American enterprise, the printing press, has found its way to California, to contribute to the information and convenience of the people. Several papers are in extensive circulation in the cities and towns, and projects for others have been formed. The principal are the Alta Californian, the Pacific News, the Courier, and the Placer Times. The three first are published in San Francisco, and the last at Sacramento.
The want of facilities for transportation must be severely felt in the interior settlements of California. Steam vessels of the swiftest and most commodious character are the means of easy communication and transportation between San Francisco and the towns on Suisan Bay and the Sacramento, as far as Sacramento City. Communication by the same means will doubtless, soon be established between the different ports on the coast. But railroads and canals are requisites for increasing the social communication and drawing the people of all parts of the State more closely together. These, however, will not be long in demand, after the State has been admitted into the Union. The companies for such purposes will feel secure in their charter, and receive assistance from the government. There is nothing more efficacious in binding a people together and maintaining peace and harmony of action, than the mechanical facility of communication. The Atlantic States of the Union afford plentiful illustration and evidence of this assertion. Mark the differences of habit and sentiment in those States, where the means of intercourse between the inhabitants are comparatively few and far between. The interests of the different sections of a large State are of course, dissimilar, and produce the widest separation of feeling and opinion, which cannot be harmonized without the facilities of intercourse afforded by railroads and canals. In no State are there greater means of communication between the people of the different sections, than in Massachusetts; and in no State is there a more harmonious action in the Legislative department of the government. Let the railroads and canals be so constructed in California as soon as possible, and the effect will be the same.
We have elsewhere mentioned and characterized the different harbors of California. There has been one other surveyed and pronounced excellent, and the beginning of a town made upon its shores. This is called Humboldt, after the distinguished traveller. It is about one hundred and seventy-five miles north of San Francisco. The river formerly called Pigeon, but now Trinity, empties into it. The harbor is sheltered from the south-west winds, but is exposed to the north-west. The north-west winds prevail from November till March, and are severe; but the south-west winds during the remainder of the year, are violent, and the harbor that is sheltered from them is considered a good one.
The Indians who inhabit a large portion of California, have been, and will be, the subject of considerable trouble to the white residents. It is a matter of the first importance for their safety, and that of the Indians themselves, that agents should be sent among them, with power to negotiate and settle all claims made by them and disputes arising between them and the whites, else, a destructive war will be the consequence. They should be induced to relinquish their claims to the soil of California as far as the Sierra Nevada, and receive due compensation therefor. But for the want of properly constituted agents from the government, they have been either driven from their old haunts by the mountaineers and other settlers, or remain amongst the whites to be a constant source of trouble. The Shoshonees, or Snakes, are the most numerous tribe to be found within the limits of the State, but there are others which are more warlike and untameable. They have all suffered considerably from the aggressions of the white emigrants, and their attacks upon individuals and parties are but the promptings of revenge, which should be taken into consideration. Lately, a war of extermination against the whole number of certain tribes was commenced on account of the doings of one or two of them. Few of them are provided with better weapons than bows and arrows, and, of course, they can make but a poor resistance to the rifles of the white men. In illustration of the treatment of the Indians, we quote an account of the doings of a war party against them, described in the work of a California tourist: —
"A few days before our arrival in the mines, five men from Oregon, named Robinson, Thompson, English, Johnson, and Wood, were murdered by Indians while engaged in gold digging. Having but one rifle, they imprudently left it in their tent. This the Indians some thirty or forty in number, first secured, and then commenced their attack with bows and arrows. The Oregonians defended themselves some time, repeatedly driving the Indians with no other weapons than the stones they found on the bar where they were at work, but upon reaching the edge of the bar, they were each time obliged again to retreat. At length three of them, stuck full of arrows, were exhausted with loss of blood and overcome; while the other two attempted to escape by crossing the fork, one succeeding in reaching the other side, but both finally meeting the fate of the others. One of the warriors of the tribe who participated in these murders was afterwards taken prisoner, and furnishing the above narration, his life was spared on condition that he should guide the whites to their rancheria.
"Accordingly, on the 16th of April, a war party was made up of about twenty young mountaineers, mostly Oregon men, and including also the young Greenwoods. Well mounted, and equipped with the enormous gingling California spurs, they rode up to Old Greenwood's for a review from the old man preparatory to starting. Each man carried besides his inseparable rifle, a long Spanish knife usually mounted with silver, and stuck in the folds of his deerskin leggings; and many were also provided with a brace of pistols or bowie knife, worn in the red Mexican sash around the waist. Old Greenwood shouted 'Mind the scalps and squaws for me, and be sure you bring 'em all in, boys,' and away they went, at a thundering lope, eager for revenge."
The day afterwards, the party returned. They were preceded by a party of Peruvians and Chilians, with a number of their peones, or slaves.
"Following closely this motley group, came on foot a body of about sixty California Indians. Warriors and boys, squaws with papooses tied on boards and slung at the back, all were prisoners. Clustered together like sheep driven to the slaughter, they hastened through the gorge with uncertain steps, the perspiration rolling off their faces now pale with fright. Many of them were quite naked, and the men and boys especially, looked more like ourang-outangs than human beings.
"In flank and rear rode the war party, which had left the Culloma Valley two days previous. Every man's rifle lay across the pommel of his saddle, and dangling at both sides hung several reeking scalps. Among them was a dashing young mountaineer named John Ross, who had two scalps for his share, and sticking in his sash was the red-sheathed bowie knife, which the writer had sold him a few days previous for an ounce of gold dust. Used previously to sever the rinds of pork, or shovel in rice and frijoles, it had now been 'wool gathering' or collecting wigs for old Greenwood's fancy stores.
"'Well done, boys,' shouted Grover, 'you have given it to them this time; now, what's the news?' In reply to this inquiry, we learned that the captured Indian had led them the night before according to promise, to their rancheria, on Weber's Creek, where some of them showing fight and others attempting escape, they were fired upon and some twenty to thirty were killed. Their chief fought until shot the third time, rising each time to his knees and discharging his arrows, Ross finally killing, cutting off his head and scalping him. Their rancheria was then searched and burned; the Indians delivering up the papers of the Oregon men, obtained at the time of their murder, and confessing that they had afterwards burned their bodies to ashes on the mountains.
"The subsequent facts were related to the writer by his highly esteemed friend, Mr. Donald Grant, a native of bonnie Scotland, who was one of our party to the mines, and an eye witness to the scene; not having left on his return to San Francisco till the following day.
"Arriving in the Culloma valley with their prisoners, the mountaineers and miners had a grand revel and jollification to celebrate their achievement. During the day most of the prisoners were released, but a few squaws and seven warriors were retained. The latter were questioned and examined relative to their participation in the murder of the Oregonians. Nothing being elicited to prove their guilt, it was nevertheless determined that they should die; because being bad looking and strong warriors, it was believed they were participators in the murders. Accordingly the consumption of champaigne and brandy continued till sunset. At that hour the seven Indians were brought forth, and knowing well their fate, one of them put up his hand as a signal, and all leaped along the valley in rapid flight. Quick as thought the rifles began to crack in every direction, while old Greenwood raving around his cabin remonstrated at the deed, tossed his arms aloft with violent denunciation; and stooping down gathered the dust in his palms, and sprinkled it on his head, swearing he was innocent of their blood. Meantime, John Greenwood stood beside the old man in stoic silence, too brave to participate in the massacre, but too much of a crow to utter his disapproval. But frantic with excitement the others thought only of revenge, and the balls whistling in every direction laid five of the warriors dead in the valley and mortally wounding another, only one escaping unscathed. The dying rays of the sun deserting the bloody scene, yet lingered on the mountain top, and the smoke of the discharge rolled in thick volume, like a pall over the corpses of the slain, while that solitary warrior turned from his distant height, to gaze after his companions, a moment in vain. But his heart quivered with vengeance, and the thin white locks of the old man in the valley, still mingled with the gray twilight, like the sackcloth and ashes of despair.