On the 1st October, Rice and Jens started for Cape Sabine, taking with them a record to deposit in the cache. They returned on the 9th October, and brought momentous news. Three caches were found at the cape, and in one of them a record brought back by Rice explained that the relief steamer had been wrecked and sunk on the 23rd July 1883; that a dépôt of some of the provisions had been made at Cape Sabine, and that a second steamer was on her way to Littleton Island. Lieutenant Garlington, who wrote this record, also stated that he was leaving for the eastern shore, and that everything within the power of man would be done to rescue Greely’s party.
On the strength of this record, Greely decided to proceed to Cape Sabine and await the promised help. The whale-boat abandoned on the ice was found by Rice at Payer Harbour safe and whole. On the 11th October, Rice started for Cape Isabella to ascertain whether the second relief ship had left supplies there. Cross, on this day, again managed to get under the influence of liquor. Next day the whole party left their temporary shelter to proceed to Cape Sabine, so as to avoid having to bring the supplies from that point. The cache left by the wrecked party was reached on the 15th, and Greely decided to take up quarters near it. On the cache being examined, it was found that instead of 500 rations (as mentioned in Garlington’s record) there were scarcely 100. In this record the statement was also made that a boat had been left at Cape Isabella. On the 15th, Rice returned and stated that no boat could be found, and that only 144 lb. English meat was cached there. On the 17th the temperature was 6° below zero, and the party had practically no shelter. It was decided to build a stone house 25 feet by 18. Owing to the scarcity of rocks, the walls were made only 3 feet high, and a boat was placed on the top to form a roof. When sitting in their bags the heads of the tall men touched the roof. Under the boat was the only place where a man could get on his knees and hold his head erect. In this miserable dwelling the winter had to be passed on starvation rations. Holes were cut in the sides of the boat, in which oars were inserted, which reaching to the side walls and fastened by ropes, supported the canvas and overlying blocks of snow which formed part of the roof. The house was surrounded with snow, and at one end a snow-house was built for the stores. Sand was put on the floor over the uneven rocks.
The provisions from the various caches were slowly brought to the house under great difficulties. The records of the expedition and the pendulum were cached on Stalknecht Island in a prominent position, so that no one visiting Payer Harbour could miss seeing it. A record similar to the one placed on Brevoort Island was put in the sextant-box and left in the cache.
On 29th October the party decided that one of two mattresses should be set aside for Greely, who directed that the other should be disposed of by lot. Greely also generously turned over his own mattress to Sergeant Gardiner, who was ill. A considerable part of the dog-biscuits was found mouldy, but although Greely gave orders that the bad ones should be thrown away, the whole were afterwards eaten by the famished men.
On 1st November the daily ration was cut down to about 6 oz. bread, 4 oz. meat, and 4 oz. vegetables, etc.; a total of about 14 oz. On this ration it was calculated that the party could be provided for until 1st March 1884, at which date there would be ten days’ rations of 20 oz. each in which to cross Smith Sound by sledge.
On 2nd November, Rice, Frederick, Elison, and Lynn left for Cape Isabella to obtain the English meat cached there. The Arctic night had commenced a week before this date, and the moon had chiefly to be depended on for light. Cape Isabella was reached on the 7th November. The first march of fourteen hours on the return journey was a very exhausting one, and had to be done on a cup of tea and no food. During this march Elison froze both his hands and feet. Frederick and Rice lay on either side of Elison, and tried in many ways to impart heat to his frosted limbs. Next day Frederick had to support and half carry Elison. On the 9th, in order to save Elison, it became necessary to abandon the meat. On the 10th, Rice started for the camp at Cape Sabine to obtain assistance. He had to travel 25 miles almost in total darkness, and he accomplished the distance in sixteen hours.
During this time, and until assistance arrived, Frederick and Lynn tried to keep Elison warm, but in a few hours the sleeping-bag became frozen so hard that they could not turn over, and had to lie in one position eighteen hours.
Elison’s feet and hands were frozen solid, and his face was little better, yet he arrived at Cape Sabine alive, although in a very critical condition. The rescue party, enfeebled through want of food, made a journey of nearly 40 miles in forty-four hours, over very rough and heavy ice, exposed to temperatures ranging from 19° to 34° below zero, and almost in darkness. Sad to relate, this party of rescuers and rescued, with the exception of two, all afterwards perished.
On the 4th November it was found that some one had been tampering with the stores. On the 9th, Lockwood discovered an opened but full can of milk hidden away. About the middle of November, Greely began to give lectures, so as to interest the men and kill time. On 4th December, Greely states that he heard Dr. Pavy taking bread from Elison’s bread-can, but did not charge him with it. A considerable number of foxes were killed during December, and allowed a slightly increased ration. For Christmas an attempt had been made to save some provisions, although the whole party were starving. Breakfast on that day consisted of a thin pea-soup, with seal-blubber and a small quantity of preserved potatoes. The dinner was a more elaborate affair, and included seal-stew, potatoes, bread, pickled onions, and a kind of rice pudding. At night everybody was required to sing a song or tell a story, and the proceedings continued till midnight. The only extra rations for New Year’s Day were cloudberries and a quarter of a lemon and gill of rum to each man.
On the 2nd January 1884, Elison’s right foot separated from the ankle when the doctor severed a fragment of skin. The patient was quite unconscious of the fact. Later he lost the other foot and both hands in the same manner, and for long afterwards he still believed he possessed them.
On the 4th January it was found that a hole had been cut through the canvas roof of the storehouse and a piece of bacon fished out. On the 7th some one made a hole with an axe in one of the barrels of bread and stole several pounds.
Up till the 12th January water had been obtained from a lake near the house, but after that date ice had to be melted. This meant a heavy drain on their fuel, and the quantity of tea had to be reduced one-half. On the 16th January, Lockwood was so weak that he could not rise without assistance. Cross was unable to walk, and several others of the party were becoming very weak.
Cross died on the 18th January; his habits had no doubt undermined his constitution, and he was therefore the first to succumb. He was buried 15 inches deep on the summit of a hill near the camp. Next day was his birthday, and it was found that he had saved up a considerable quantity of bread and butter to celebrate it.
On the 19th January it was found that the bread was overrunning the estimate, and the ration was increased a half-ounce. This partly dispelled the gloom caused by the first funeral. On the 21st January it was discovered that at some time twelve cans of milk had been stolen. On the 26th, Rice and Jens received an extra allowance of food, so as to strengthen them for a proposed trip to Littleton Island. At this time old leather boots were being burned to augment the fuel. The general ration was again slightly increased on the 28th. A still further increase was made on 1st February. On the 2nd, Rice and Jens started for Littleton Island, accompanied by Brainard and Christiansen for a short distance. They carried six days’ rations. They returned on the 6th February, having found open water. Rice believed that he reached within 10 miles of Littleton Island. The trip exhausted Jens very much.
On 27th February the last of the onions, dog-biscuits, and coffee was reached. On 2nd March the last general issue of lemons took place, and the last can of milk was opened for Elison. On 3rd March, Frederick was promoted by Greely to be sergeant in place of Cross, who had died. This and similar promotions were afterwards disapproved of on the ground that there was “no precedent for them”! Red tape in its most vivid colours can evidently flourish in the land of “liberty.”
On 11th March, Long and Christiansen were sent to Alexandra Harbour in search of game. They returned on the 13th very much exhausted. They saw no game and no tracks, except of a single fox. On the 14th, Brainard shot three ptarmigans, the first game obtained since early in February. Three other were shot on the 15th, and four dovekies on the 16th. On the 17th the rations had to be reduced to 7 oz. of bread and 4 oz. of meat. On the 21st a net was made in which to catch shrimps, and next day about a pint was obtained. By this date the idea of crossing Smith Sound had been given up, as the strength of the party was insufficient for the task. On the 24th of March the entire party were in great danger of perishing from the fumes of the alcohol-lamp used in cooking. The chimney had been closed with rags, as usual, so that as much heat as possible might be retained in the hut at night, and the cooks had forgotten to remove the rags before beginning cooking. Several of the men were rendered unconscious, but soon recovered in the air outside the hut. It was remarked afterwards by all the men who got out of the hut, that every one attempted to assist his neighbour except Henry, who held himself aloof, evidently caring for no one but himself. Greely and several of the men suffered severely from frost-bites as the result of the exposure. After order was restored, and the breakfast cooked, it was found that a piece of bacon had been stolen. Jens had seen Henry take the bacon and conceal it within his shirt. Just before dinner, Henry complained of being sick, and soon after he vomited. Frederick, on examination, found that the vomited matter contained a considerable quantity of undigested bacon. A general investigation of Henry’s conduct was made on the 25th, which clearly established his guilt, not only of the bacon, but that he took a double allowance of rum after the theft. Greely relieved Henry from duty, and he was prohibited from leaving his sleeping-bag except under the supervision of one of his comrades. Two days later, 10 oz. chocolate reserved for Elison was stolen, and Henry was suspected.
For the first time in five months a ray of sunlight entered the wretched hut on 25th March. On the 27th, Long was fortunate in obtaining thirty-three dovekies. On the 28th, Rice got 27 lb. of shrimps, Long secured fourteen more dovekies, and Christiansen shot a ptarmigan. This success caused great rejoicing among the starving men.
On the 29th March, Elison wished the doctor to do something for his itching feet, unconscious that they had been gone since early in January. On the 3rd April all that remained of provisions consisted of 5 lb. of meat, 3 lb. of bread, and about 2 lb. of stearine to each man. From 20 to 30 lb. of shrimps were, however, being obtained daily.
The second death took place on 5th April. Christiansen, one of the Eskimo, had been thoroughly used up in the hunting expedition with Long, and never quite recovered. Extra food was given to him during the week previous to his death, in the hope of saving him. Lockwood had a great affection for him, and had much to say in his praise.
Deaths now followed one another quickly. Lynn became unconscious at 1 p.m. on 6th April, and died at 7 p.m. When dying he asked for water, but there was none to give him. The Isabella trip had weakened him both physically and mentally.
On the 6th April, Rice and Private Frederick started to attempt the recovery of the English beef which had to be abandoned to save Elison. They had wished to make the attempt earlier in the year, but Greely would not consent. Now, when provisions were almost gone, he agreed. Before leaving, Rice slept in the same bag containing his dead comrade Lynn, all unconscious of the fact that, in two days more, he too would pass away. The temperature when they started was 8° below zero. Next day they were confined to their bag twenty-two hours by a violent storm. They reached the place where the meat had been abandoned, but could not find it. Soon afterwards Rice showed signs of weakness. Frederick gave him some spirits of ammonia in rum, until he made some tea. Then, giving him some warm food and drink, he urged him to walk, in order to avoid freezing. His condition had now, however, become so alarming that he could not stand up, and his mind continually reverted to home, relations, and friends. Frederick stripped himself of his jumper, in which to wrap Rice’s feet. In his shirt-sleeves, sitting on the sledge, in a driving storm of wind and snow, he held his dying comrade in his arms for several hours, until he passed away. The feelings of Frederick may be imagined; his sleeping-bag had been left some miles away, and to reach it he must struggle against a cutting blast filled with drifting snow. Recovering strength by sleep and a little food, he returned 6 miles to cover his comrade with snow and ice. In returning to the camp at Cape Sabine, he dragged his sledge as far as his feebleness would permit, then took a little food, and getting into his bag, drank a spoonful of ammonia and rum, which enabled him to sleep. As soon as he awoke, he travelled on as before. In this way he hauled everything back to the camp, even including Rice’s rations. It may truly be said that Rice laid down his life for his comrades. On several other occasions he had ventured it, especially on his extraordinary trips to Isabella, and towards Littleton Island. Rice’s death deeply affected the party.
On the same day that this tragedy was being enacted on the ice, Lockwood breathed his last in the hut at Cape Sabine. Since the beginning of the year he had been extremely weak, but lingered on till the 9th of April. He was the most distinguished man of the party, his explorations having been the main achievements of the expedition. His name will remain in Arctic history.
“Jewell is much weaker to-day,” were the last words Lockwood wrote. This was on the 7th April, and on the 12th Jewell died. On the 11th, Brainard fortunately shot a bear, which probably saved the lives of some of the party; and on the following day Long shot a small seal. On the 13th the ration was increased to a pound of meat daily. On the 20th it had to be reduced to 10 oz. Towards the end of April, Greely was seriously ill, and in danger of dying. Henry, taking advantage of his illness, stole alcohol, and became hopelessly drunk.
On the 29th April, Jens and Long were out hunting, and watched a seal lying on an isolated floe. They hoped the floe would drift in to the fast ice, but after a long delay, Jens decided to try and reach it in his kayak. He crossed one lead, dragged his kayak across the ice, and entered a second. Long, who was looking on, saw Jens suddenly begin to paddle rapidly, and the next moment the kayak began to sink. Jens made an effort to get up on the ice, but it was new and could not bear his weight, and he was drowned. The kayak was probably cut when being dragged over the ice.
On the 3rd of May the last of the bread was used, and only nine days’ meat remained. On the 6th a violent scene took place between Greely and Dr. Pavy regarding the doctor’s reports. On the 12th, Greely decided to divide the last of the regular rations, as he was afraid that one or two of the worst men of the party might appropriate the remaining food, which was only sufficient to last till the 15th of May.
The want of provisions rapidly told on the starved men. Ellis died on the 19th, Ralston on the 23rd, and Whisler on the 24th. They now tried to feed on saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia). On the 24th they had for dinner a handful of saxifrage, two or three spoonfuls of shrimps, and a pint and a half of tea. On the 26th there was a severe storm, which prevented Brainard going to obtain shrimps, and in consequence stews had to be made of the seal-skin thongs used for lashing the sledge.
Sergeant Israel, the astronomer, died on the 27th May. At the beginning of June, fourteen of the party were still alive, but did not expect to live long, unless the hunters were more fortunate or relief came quickly. On the 1st June they had a breakfast of shrimps and seaweed after a fast of thirty-four hours. Lieutenant Kislingbury died at 3 p.m. He was the only one of the party known by Greely before contemplating Arctic work. Although he had trouble with him at the commencement of their work at Conger, Greely acknowledged that he was a hard-working officer, and that he never spared himself in labours which would add to the personal comfort of others.
Salor died on 4th June. On this date, Greely, against the doctor’s advice, decided to try to eat tripe de Roche. As Henry had been found stealing again, he was cautioned by Greely that he would come to grief if he did not stop it. Greely also gave written orders to Brainard, Frederick, and Long that if Henry was again caught stealing he was to be shot. Next day Frederick detected Henry stealing shrimps, and Greely found that he had been stealing seal-skin thongs contrary to positive orders. He was ordered to be shot, Greely giving the order in writing. It was carried out the same day.
On the 6th June, Dr. Pavy drank about 3 oz. of extract of ergot, having evidently mistaken it for a preparation of iron. He died the same day at 6 p.m., and Bender fifteen minutes before him. Greely states that Dr. Pavy was a man of fine education, polished manners, and great Arctic ambition. His medical skill was great, and contributed much to the general welfare of the party during the last winter. He thought, however, that his previous Bohemian life unfitted him for duty where his actions were subject to restriction or limitation from others.
For breakfast on the 7th all the shrimps were eaten, and everybody began collecting reindeer-moss, tripe de Roche, and saxifrage. On the 11th June the party obtained a guillemot, and a second went to the hunters. Next day the nets for catching shrimps were lost through the floes breaking up. Gardiner appeared to be dead at 11 a.m. of this day, and was carried from the tent in which the party had been living for some time; but later he showed signs of life, and did not die until 5 p.m.
On 13th June, Greely issued to the party his seal-skin jumper for dinner. He also divided between them the dirty, oil-tanned covering of his sleeping-bag. Schneider died on 18th June.
Near midnight of the 22nd the whistle of a ship was heard. At first the party could hardly believe their ears. Brainard went to the brow of the hill, but no ship was to be seen. The party had resigned themselves to despair, when suddenly strange voices were heard, and they realised that they were saved. During the forty-two hours prior to their rescue a few square inches of soaked seal-skin was all the nutriment they received.
No relief or expeditionary vessels ever before ventured at so early a date the dangers of Melville Bay. Congress had offered a reward of 25000 dollars for the first information regarding the expedition, and this had an important bearing on the rescue. The Scotch whalers set forth on their voyage many days earlier than was customary, and there was a friendly rivalry in the search between them and the American vessels in charge of Captain Schley, who, profiting by their experience and advice, won in the race for Cape Sabine.
Of the twenty-five men of the party eighteen had died. The living were: Greely, Brainard, Long, Frederick, Bierderbick, Connell, and Elison. It was found necessary, however, to perform secondary amputation in the case of Elison, and he died at Godhavn on the 8th of July.
As regards the responsibility for the great disaster which overtook this expedition, Greely admitted that, although not under orders to do so, he should have done more than arrange for a retreat to Cape Sabine in the event of not being reached at Conger. But little blame can be attached to him for this omission. It is easy to criticise after the event, but it seemed in the highest degree improbable that, if he could not be reached at Conger, there would be the least difficulty in the relief ships leaving sufficient supplies at Cape Sabine or other point on the west coast.
The disaster can be traced in the first place to the instructions given to Greely to abandon the station and retreat to the south in the event of no relief ship reaching him. It would have been much better to have left this question to Greely’s discretion. If the party had remained at Conger another winter, it is highly probable that no disaster would have occurred.
In the second place, the chief responsibility undoubtedly lay with those who had charge of the relief. A ship was sent north in 1882, and failed in its mission; but instead of leaving its stores, or even part of its stores, at some point likely to be reached by Greely, those in command took the incredible course of returning south with the stores intact.
In 1883 those in authority must have known that absolutely nothing had been done in 1882, and that in the event of a failure to reach Conger taking place in 1883, Greely would certainly retreat southwards. One would therefore have expected that all possible precautions would be taken to insure the safety of the expedition. The possible wreck of one of the relief ships should have been arranged for, and steps taken to insure that sufficient supplies would not only be left at Littleton Island, but at some point on the west coast.
Serious responsibility was incurred by Lieutenant Garlington when he made the written statement that everything in the power of man would be done to relieve the expedition. All through the horrors of the winter nearly the whole of Greely’s party believed to the last that a relieving party was at Littleton Island watching the first favourable opportunity to cross the Sound.
The whole arrangements for the relief ended in a gigantic muddle, and while nothing was done to lend assistance, Greely’s party were induced by fair promises to camp in a practically barren region.
This expedition, and others which had preceded it, gave little encouragement to Americans to continue Arctic exploration, although the results achieved had been important. Kane lost the Advance; his party had to undergo great privations, and had ultimately to retreat in boats. The Polaris was lost, and many of the members of the expedition had to suffer greatly. De Long lost the Jeannette, and a large number of his party met a terrible fate; and now Greely’s expedition was the climax of them all.