Czytaj książkę: «Confessions of a New York Taxi Driver»

INTRODUCTION A conversation with the human race

A man jumped into my cab one night in April, 2008, at the corner of 5^th Avenue and 57^th Street. He was a forty-something businessman type, an Inquisitario (a passenger who asks a lot of questions) as it turned out, en route to Grand Central Station.

I could see he was a bit disoriented as he settled into the back seat, but this is not unusual in New York. Certain things must be confronted by a passenger as he enters a yellow cab in this city. Things like: how much will this ride cost? Do I have enough cash or will I have to use a credit card? Hey, what in hell is the source of that odor? And, since English is usually a cabbie’s second language, does the driver actually understand a word I’m saying?

So it took him a few moments before it dawned on him. Leaning forward in his seat, he studied me carefully.

‘Say,’ he blurted out, ‘you’re an… American!’

‘Yeah,’ I said, ‘but you know I charge extra for that.’

He ignored the joke.

‘You’re the first American driver I’ve had in… three years!’

‘Better play the lottery tonight.’

‘Really!’

I know how monkeys feel when people are staring at them in the zoo. There are indeed very few American taxi drivers in New York City. My passenger’s eyes moved from the back of my head to my hack license.

‘Eugene Salomon,’ he said, not realizing in his excitement that I already knew my own name.

‘That’s me.’

‘Tell me something, Mr Salomon… how long have you been driving a cab?’

‘You don’t have a heart condition or anything, do you?’

‘No.’

‘Well, then, I’ll tell you… I have been driving a cab since… (drum roll, please)… 1977.’

There was a short pause as this information was processed, and then the expected response: ‘Oh my God!’ This is said in the same combination of horror and amazement people have when they see someone being hit by a car. I take it in my stride.

‘Wow,’ my passenger said, ‘you must have some stories!’

‘Buddy,’ I say in a well-rehearsed reply, ‘I have more stories than the Empire State Building…’

The taxis

And I do.

If you make driving a cab in New York City your career you will get no pension, no paid vacations, no overtime and no health benefits. But you will get a collection of stories. It’s inevitable. It comes with the job.

Why is this so? Let’s take a minute to examine what taxi driving in this, the Monster City of the World, is all about. Especially if you’re not a New Yorker (yet), a review of the basics is in order.

We are all familiar with the image of a street in New York that is filled to the brim with yellow taxicabs. It’s a part of the landscape here. How many taxis are there? The answer is 13,237, a quantity that is determined by the city government. Why so many? (Or so few, if you’ve been standing in the rain for half an hour trying to get one?) Well, Manhattan, the borough where the great majority of these cabs can be found, is an island that is thirteen miles in length and two miles in width. One and a half million people live on this island and almost none of them own a car – there’s no room for cars! So for many New Yorkers a taxi is a daily means of getting around town. Add to that the million tourists who are here every day and the more than a million commuters who are also here every day and you get an idea of why taxicabs are so important to life in the city.

In New York you can walk out into the street, wave your hand in the air (known as a ‘hail’), and before you can whistle ‘Big Yellow Taxi’, a big yellow taxi will zip up to you and stop, making itself available for your grand entrance. Your carriage awaits you, sir! Or madam.

Consider how marvelous this is. What convenience! In most places you must call on the phone for a taxi and wait for that taxi to arrive, if it arrives at all. But the population of Manhattan is so dense that it makes the street-hail system workable. Hand goes up, taxi arrives. Amazing!

And the driver of that taxi is required by law to take you anywhere in the city you want to go. He cannot legally refuse you. Of course, it is an imperfect world and if you want to go to Brooklyn in the middle of the evening rush hour, you may be refused every once in a while. In fact, you deserve to be refused if you want to go to Brooklyn at that time! But, generally speaking, your driver will take you anywhere in the city you want to go. Again, this is an amazing convenience, if you think about it.

So we have here a system of thousands of taxis, all in competition with each other, cruising the streets and constantly looking for their next customer – anyone with his hand in the air. (Yes, I have stopped for people who were actually looking at their watches, pointing at buildings, or waving goodbye to their friends. And I have stopped not once, but twice, for a statue of a man hailing a cab on East 47^th Street!)

The passengers

Anyway, who are all these people with their hands in the air? What kinds of people get into taxicabs in New York City? There are two broad categories: visitors and residents.

Who are the visitors? Well, maybe it’s not everyone, but it seems like it is. New York has been called the Capital of the World, the City That Never Sleeps, Gotham, the Big Apple and other nicknames. As already mentioned, I call it the Monster City of the World. But whatever you want to call it, it is certainly a place where people from all over the planet converge. Sometimes I imagine that everyone in the world is standing in line in a single file. And then, one by one, they all get into my cab.

The variety is infinite. I am convinced that every conceivable type of person from every conceivable place is well represented in this city. From wide-eyed teenagers from Tennessee here on a school trip to middle-aged Barry Manilow groupies from England following the singer all around the country, or to an old couple from San Diego returning to the city after a forty-year absence – they all get into my cab. People from Turkey, people from Brazil; people from Estonia, people from Taiwan; I actually once had a passenger from Liechtenstein, a country in Europe that’s so small it would fit into the trunk of my cab!

Most passengers, however (about eighty percent by my own estimate), are people who live in or close to the city. They can be broken down into seven main groups:

1. The Workerbees – these are the folks who either commute to and from the suburbs, live above 96^th Street in Manhattan, or reside in the neighborhoods of the outer boroughs (Brooklyn, Queens, the Bronx and Staten Island). I define ‘neighborhood’ as a place where families live and kids can be seen playing with other kids without supervision. Due to the extremely high price of real estate, with the exception of the Lower East Side, there are basically no neighborhoods left in Manhattan south of 96^th Street. The Workerbees I get in my cab are usually either en route to the boroughs or coming from or going to the train and bus stations of Manhattan.

2. The American Aristocracy – these are the people on the upper end of the food chain who were born into wealth and privilege. They live in specific places: 5^th Avenue and Park Avenue between 60^th and 96^th Streets. Here we find ‘high society’ – prep schools, trust funds, debutante balls, charity events and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. And, yes, as a rule they are no better than average tippers.

3. The Comfortables – this group consists of those who are doing quite well, thank you, and can actually afford to live in Manhattan. They may have been called ‘Yuppies’ (Young Urban Professionals) at one time, but the truth is most of them aren’t that young anymore. But urban and professional they certainly are. They can be found anywhere in Manhattan, but are most often in Midtown, the Upper West Side, Tribeca and Soho, with some hearty pioneers buying up brownstones in Brooklyn and Harlem.

4. The Gonnabees – it’s been written that ‘big dreams come to New York, small dreams stay home’. More than anywhere else in America, New York is the place where ambitious people come to make their mark. These are the Gonnabees. A Wannabee is someone with a small dream who stays home; a Gonnabee takes the leap and arrives in New York City come hell or high rentals. Most Gonnabees are in their twenties. The artistic ones can be found in the East Village, Alphabet City, the Lower East Side, and, currently, extending over the borders of Manhattan into the Williamsburg and Greenpoint sections of Brooklyn. The rest of the Gonnabees are pursuing careers in business and are sharing apartments in the Upper East Side or Midtown.

5. The Unmoveables – they can’t afford to live in Manhattan, but they’re too hooked to ever leave. These are the Gonnabees who never made it to the Comfortables. They range in age from thirty-five to ninety and could be anywhere in Manhattan, probably in a rent-stabilized apartment.

6. The Flying Cosmopolitans – wealthy, successful and smart, these are people from other countries or other parts of the United States who own apartments in New York but are here only occasionally. They could be living anywhere in Manhattan, but never in the boroughs. In fact, most of them have probably never even been to the boroughs except to pass through Queens on their way to the airport.

7. The Flying Workerbees – these people are working-class nomads from other places who are toiling in New York for extended periods of time and, in the case of Americans, may even commute back home on the weekends. They are either in Midtown or not far from Midtown. Both the Flying Workerbees and the Flying Cosmopolitans aren’t really residents and aren’t exactly visitors either. They fall in the middle. But there are enough of them in taxicabs to be recognizable as distinct types of passengers.

The rides

So these are the kinds of people who get into taxis in New York City (along with an occasional dog). And what about the ride itself? What happens during a ride in a taxicab? There are three possibilities.

The first: nothing. The driver drives and the passenger looks out the window or watches the damned television which the city has mandated to be in the rear compartment of every yellow cab. The second: the driver is a fly on the wall. He finds himself the sudden observer of a scene in the passengers’ lives. Middle-aged siblings are discussing their mother’s medical condition and the driver is just along for the ride. Literally. Or two movie stars (Sean Penn and Dennis Hopper) hop in and talk to each other about – what else? – old movies.

And then there is the third possibility… a conversation takes place. And this is where it gets interesting.

Cab drivers and their passengers find themselves in a unique human situation. It’s a business relationship but, like barbers and bartenders, it’s a relationship that shares a close space for a limited length of time. Due to these factors the shell that divides strangers is easily shattered by the act of communication, and the potential for just about any kind of conversation exists.

Politics, sports, what’s in the news today – these are common grounds for discussion, as well as the endless spectacle of whatever’s passing by on the street. Of course, you never know where a conversation may lead you. Sometimes it may take you into something that might be called an ‘adventure’. Like the summer day in 1984 when I picked up a man on 56^th Street who was wearing white shorts and holding half a dozen tennis racquets in his arms. He turned out to be Martina Navratilova’s coach and was headed out to Douglaston in Queens for a practice session. Thirty minutes later I am standing on a tennis court with one of Martina’s racquets in my hand, trying to return the serve of a tennis pro. And Martina herself sits patiently watching as her coach has some fun with me.

Other times a conversation may flow so easily that the passenger and the driver find themselves talking to each other as if they were the closest of friends. I remember once bringing an elderly man, traveling alone, from LaGuardia Airport to Manhattan. There was a nice rapport between us, and this man told me about his life. He was one of the four Shorin brothers who had founded the Topps chewing gum company. He told me about the problems they’d had obtaining the raw materials used in making gum during World War II, and of the enduring love he had for his deceased brothers. ‘It was one for all and all for one,’ he said, as tears streamed down his face.

Others – on the assumption that the driver doesn’t know who they are and will never see them again – will spill out their guts about things they probably wouldn’t reveal to even their closest confidants. A man once bragged to me, for example, about how he cheated the city out of $80,000: he broke his leg at home but claimed he’d tripped at a municipal construction site and used his girlfriend as a false witness. Another time a man jumped into my cab in a true frenzy. Bouncing through emotions of anger and grief like a rubber ball, he wailed that he’d just been in a fight in a bar – and he thinks he may have killed another man.

Still others, trying to get a bargain by using their driver as a therapist, will ask for advice about anything from career changes, boyfriends and the stock market to how to buy a used car, how to make up a good excuse to his wife, or how to defrost a bagel. Amazingly enough, as years go by a taxi driver finds himself an expert in all these things and it turns out the passenger was wise to have sought his counsel.

So what it all comes down to is this: millions of people from every corner of the Earth - from Kathmandu to Katz’s deli - are jammed together on a small island called Manhattan. They get into taxicabs and talk with their drivers. Communication occurs. And as years go by, a cabbie, looking back, will realize he has been having encounters, perhaps even connections, if not with every person on the planet, then certainly with every type of person on the planet.

He has been having, you might say, a conversation with the human race.

So jump in. Let’s think of reading this book as being like taking a ride in my cab, except without the potholes. You want stories? I’ve got stories. You want opinions? I’ve got opinions. You want advice? Now why would you want my advice about… that? Well, since you asked, I happen to be something of a streetwise scholar on that subject, so my advice you will get.

But where do we start? Well, I think we should begin with the question every single person asks me immediately after they say, ‘Wow, you must have some stories…’