Edinburgh – Sights and Secrets

national museum of scotland – following historical traces

text and photo sascha ihns

The National Museum of Scotland opened its doors in 1866 as the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art. Today it is Britain’s largest museum outside of London, with more than 20,000 items on exhibit and drawing up to two million visitors a year on average. In 2011 the original Victorian-style Royal Museum was refurbished and integrated into the postmodern National Museum building (inaugurated in 1998) with its distinctive castle turret at the front.

Visitors begin in the vast entrance hall of the former Royal Museum, bathed in natural light and with a dazzling (even confusing) array of options for starting their tour. There are a number of galleries to choose from, like Grand Gallery, Window on the World, Art and Design or Discoveries. One of the most impressive exhibitions (and a favourite among younger visitors) is the Natural History Gallery, where visitors can gaze at several real dinosaur skeletons alongside modern animals (mounted) as well as fossils and geological findings explaining the development of our planet up to the present. Other exhibitions like World Cultures offer items and explanations about different indigenous people and present archaeological findings like weapons and coins from ancient Egypt and the Islamic world. In the Science and Technology gallery, visitors can get to know numerous Scottish inventions and also come face-to-face with a very famous Scot – Dolly the Sheep, who found her final resting place here, stuffed and mounted.

Afterwards, take a break at the museum’s café on Level 3 of the entrance hall before strolling on to the new part of the National Museum and it’s further 10,000 items. Here the visitor can trace the path of Scottish history, beginning at the lowest level with prehistory and then progressing to the early medieval period with its ecclesiastical history and religious wars, towards the industrial revolution and its impact on modern Scottish life. Highlights like the “Maiden”, an early Scottish version of a Guillotine, are explained interactively via touchscreens, while other exhibits like the complete steam locomotive and weaving loom are impressive enough without further explanation.

Tip: The upmarket Tower Restaurant is a lovely spot with a fantastic view above the roofs of Edinburgh. Just off the restaurant is a rooftop panorama terrace open to anyone, even if you’re just stopping by for the view.

Chambers Street, Edinburgh EH1 1JF.

Mon - Sun 10am - 5pm. Admission free.

www.nms.ac.uk

scottish national gallery of modern art – a colourful place

text and photo melanie dworaczek

Surrounded by scenic parkland on the outskirts of the city, just a 20-minute walk from the city centre, the delights of the Gallery of Modern Art await. Escape the beehive of activity that is the city to unwind with the perfect companion – art.

Two exhibitions, 30 displays and whole worlds of artists across different eras, with something for everyone, from the casual tourist to the art connoisseur. Opposite Modern Art Two is the gallery where you’ll find iconic works by Monet, Van Gogh, Raphael and Titian, Canova’s spectacular sculpture The Three Graces, and of course a wealth of Scottish art. In addition to the permanent exhibition, the gallery hosts frequent world-class temporary exhibits – Matisse and Picasso have both been recent highlights. Of course, we cannot neglect to mention the important permanent collection of international works from the postwar period, or the world’s most important and comprehensive collection of modern Scottish art. The postwar collection includes works by Francis Bacon, David Hockney, Andy Warhol and Lucian Freud; modern artists represented include Antony Gormley, Gilbert & George, Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin. But don’t just come for the art; the gallery’s café is sure to please the whole family: bright atmosphere, culinary delights, stylish presentation. Fresh salads, healthy menus, tea, coffee, fresh baked cookies and cakes - a delicious selection any way you slice it, in an ambiance that begs you to lean back and enjoy the moment.

Fifteen minutes’ walk from Princes Street, or an easy jaunt on coach line 13. Admission is free, although selected temporary exhibitions may be subject to charge. The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is also one of the major venues for the Edinburgh Festival in August.

Tip: Vegetarian options (at least ∫ main courses), children’s portions, children’s highchairs, wheelchair access, outdoor tables, free Wi-Fi.

75 Belford Road, Edinburgh EH43DR.

Open daily, 10am - 5pm (6pm in August only).

Closed 25th and 26th Dec and open on 1st Jan from 12pm.

Admission is free. Special exhibitions may be subject to charge.

www.nationalgalleries.org

scottish national portrait gallery – meet sir walter scott and colin montgomerie

text and photo susanne schramm

This impressive neo-gothic, red sandstone building on Queen Street built from 1885-1890 is highly recommended for anyone interested in architecture.

The building itself is imposing enough from afar, but a closer look reveals the exquisite details – ornate friezes, detailed murals, and sophisticated, sculptural embellishments. Even if you’re not looking to see the portraits, you’ll want to make a stop here.

Inside you’ll find a comprehensive collection of portraits of historical figures from the 16th century to the present – figures who shaped Scotland, by the leading names of Scottish art. Like Sir Walter Scott by Alexander Naemyth, Robert Burns by Henry Raeburn or more contemporary pioneers in arts, sports and science, such as Colin Montgomerie by Iain Faulkner.

The Scottish National Photography Collection on the 1st Floor presents temporary exhibitions, as well as popular works by Robert Adamson and David Octavius Hill. With its annual BP Portrait Award event, the Gallery also brings together an inspiring exhibition that encourages artists from around the world to develop the theme of portraiture in their work.

Between the seventeen galleries with both temporary and permanent exhibitions, and the Victorian library, there will always be something interesting and new to discover.

In the Great Hall, the gallery hosts free events like concerts and talks, so check the programme to see what’s on next.

Tip: The Portrait Cafe serves fresh deli sandwiches, soups, mains, and the best buttery scones in town.

1 Queen Street, Edinburgh EH21JD.

Open daily 10am - 5pm (6pm in August only), Thursdays until 7pm.

Admission is free (special exhibitions subject to charge).

www.nationalgalleries.org

sir walter’s locks – the writers’ museum

text and photo andrea weil

You might know the three classic Scots novels Treasure Island, Ivanhoe and Scots Wha Hae. But did you know there’s a museum dedicated to their authors? Many discover it because the Lady Stair’s House, built in 1622, catches the eye with its stone tower and high windows. Half of the main room is occupied by the museum’s shop, which sells exquisite hardcover editions of a wide range of authors. If you just want to sit down for a good read beyond the glow of the shadow-casting chandeliers on the red walls, there’s a small library available in the gallery. In the exhibition, timelines trace the authors’ personal stories against the historical background of their time. How did farmer’s son Robert Burns become such an influential poet? Why did Walter Scott publish his first novel, Waverley, anonymously? Why did Robert Louis Stevenson spend his later years in Samoa, where the ink was, as he described it, “dreadful”? You might find, though, that the museum doesn’t reveal the same level of depth about each of the three. Some visitors may be thrilled to see a lock of Scott’s hair, but it hardly adds the kind of perspective on the author that the photos of Stevenson’s journeys do.

Tip: On most Thursday afternoons, a member of the venerable Robert Louis Stevenson Club Edinburgh is to be found downstairs chatting with visitors about his favourite writer.

Lady Stair’s House, Lady Stair’s Close, Lawnmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2PA.

Mon - Sat 10am - 5pm, Sun 12pm - 5pm (in August only).

www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk

a study in crime novels – arthur conan doyle’s edinburgh

text and photo patricia kämpf

When you think of Sherlock Holmes, you probably think of the foggy Victorian streets of Old London, but the world’s greatest sleuth has a surprising connection to Edinburgh: his creator, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, was born here in 1859. And if you’re observant, you will find some clues to his story.

Conan Doyle studied medicine at the University of Edinburgh Medical School – a place you can still visit today. There he studied under Professor Joseph Bell, whose observant habits loosely inspired Conan Doyle’s most famous character. Sherlock Holmes’ fame grew to outshine that of his creator, so it’s not surprising that the statue you find in Picardy Place is of the fictional detective, and not of Arthur Conan Doyle himself.

Across from the statue is the Conan Doyle Pub, a nice and cosy place to have some fish and chips. And if you’re in the mood to travel back to Conan Doyle’s time, there are many secondhand bookshops here to help you do just that – perfect for a rainy afternoon. Or you can just stroll around town, imagining Sherlock Holmes stepping out of one of the many Victorian houses. In Tollcross, southwest of the city centre, you might even stumble across Holmes’ nemesis, Moriarty…

Sherlock Holmes Statue: Picardy Place.

The Conan Doyle Pub, 71-73 York Place, Edinburgh EH1 3JD.

Sun - Thu 10am - 11pm, Fri - Sat 10am - midnight.

Fish and chips for £11.75.

www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk

University of Edinburgh Medical School

Teviot Place, Edinburgh, EH8 9AG.

Armchair Books, 72-74 West Port, Edinburgh EH1 2LE.

10.30am - 6.30pm (every day).

www.armchairbooks.co.uk

plunge into history – the people’s story

text and photo andrea weil

When a king builds a castle, his name is written into the history books. But who knows the names of the builders who worked for him, or the women who swept the floors? The People’s Story on the Royal Mile is a museum dedicated to the “ordinary” people of Edinburgh, their lives, hardships and struggles for human rights. The collection was built in 1989 out of the private donations of individuals sharing their personal memories, which the curators have displayed all over the exhibition. These words breathe new life into the history of the 18th and 19th century, as do the detailed, lifelike mannequins of the people of Edinburgh’s past, like poor widow Jessie Thompson, whose face speaks of exhaustion and defeat. Entering the Canongate Tolbooth the visitor is immediately captured by the atmosphere: sounds of horseshoes on cobblestones, acts of council pasted to the black stone walls, even the smell of smoking coals. The layout of the exhibition is perhaps not the clearest, but it’s fun poking around discovering the details. Please note that the mannequins are not to be touched and there is a lot of reading, so it might not be the best museum to keep children entertained.

Check out the video room on the top floor of the tower for 22 minutes of interviews.

Canongate Tolbooth, Royal Mile, Edinburgh EH8 8BN.

Mon - Sat 10am - 5pm,

Sun 12pm - 5pm (during the Edinburgh Festival only).

stills – scotland’s centre for photography

text and photo werner gritzbach

In Edinburgh’s Cockburn Street you can find Stills, Scotland’s Centre for Photography.

Stills’ status as a foundation, with 80% of its funding from national grants and 20% from fundraising, allows it to host far more unconventional exhibitions than a commercial gallery.

Stills presents regular photo exhibitions of the highest international calibre, and offers extensive facilities for the production of photographic work.

For £12 a day you can rent a digital workstation provided with equipment of the highest standards. Or, if you’re old school, the same price will get you the use of a darkroom to develop your black-and-white or colour prints from film. For £70, you can hire your choice of professional cameras.

You can do research in library’s collection of rare volumes, artist books and monographs, and photographic and art magazines for free.

The little bookshop has the latest photography books, as well as freshly made coffee, tea and WiFi. There’s always people here to talk with about new projects and ideas. Stills offers lots of courses, from landscape to street photography and from artistic book design to Photoshop, as well as specialty courses like gelatin silver process printing.

The film lounge presents a new programme of artist’s films and videos year-round.

Stills – Scotland’s Centre for Photography,

23 Cockburn Street, Edinburgh EH1 BO.

Every day 11am - 6pm,

Facilities: Mo - Thu 11am - 9pm, Fr, Sat, Sun 11am - 6pm.